November 2nd
El Calafate was a quick stop as the trip to the glacier is the main attraction, so I got up early, grabbed a coffee, and took one last wander around town. Then it was off to the bus station for my 10:30 ride. I completely underestimated how hot I’d get in my layers, dragging all my stuff, and thought ditching Google Maps for the shortcut the hostel lady suggested would make things easier. It didn’t. I ended up slightly lost, frantically trying to make it on time.
Clearly I wasn’t paying enough attention to where I was going, I tripped, fell, and full-on face-planted onto a gravel path. It wasn’t graceful or subtle. And yes, there were witnesses. But fortunately, I made it just in time for the bus and could relax once we were on our way.
The ride to El Chaltén was ridiculously beautiful. Seriously, one of the prettiest routes I’ve been on, with sunny skies and fluffy clouds drifting across the mountain peaks. By the time we rolled into town, I was buzzing with adrenaline and awe from the views—especially my first glimpse of Fitz Roy towering above the town.
After a short walk to the hostel, Norma – the sweet hostel lady – handed me a map and told me I had better get outside! My original plan was to chill the rest of the day, get my bearings, and buy some groceries, but Norma warned me that I better not miss out on the good weather, so after a quick change into hiking clothes I was headed for the trail.
Unfortunately, El Chaltén had just started charging day-use fees for the trails a couple of weeks ago, with prices about to jump even higher for the busy season (up to 45 dollars a day). Luckily, my Perito Moreno national park ticket got me in for half the price—about $15 USD instead of $30. The wind was picking up, and clouds started rolling in, but the hike to Mirador de Cóndores and Mirador de Águilas was still great. I spotted my first Andean condors soaring overhead, which got me pumped for the days of hiking ahead.
Back at the hostel, I met two other guys staying there…out of the five of us total. We made awkward small talk in the kitchen, laughing about how we all chose this hostel based on reviews calling it “super friendly” and “great for meeting people.” So far, not so much.
Still, the three of us decided to venture out for food and drinks. One of the guys mentioned a Halloween party at a bar down the road, so we rolled in around 11 p.m. to find… absolutely nothing happening. Classic. But, being Argentina, we knew people would show up eventually, and sure enough, by 3 a.m., the place was packed. From wall to wall the place was so crowded you could barely move.
It turned out to be mostly locals, aside from a handful of other backpackers. I spent the night dancing and chatting with some local girls who work at a hotel in El Chalten in the summer and live in Buenos Aires during the winter. It was a good night talking and dancing with both locals and fellow travelers, making new friends on both sides.
